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Domaine de Chevalier & Tenuta di Biserno vertical tastings (english vers.)



Domaine de Chevalier

Red

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This wine has a nice appeal on the nose, with a sweet depth of black cherry fruit, with smoky charcoal and nutty oak on the side. Cool, stylish and quite refreshing on the palate, with some substance, the barest touch of light cream. The tannins are ripe, and there is some substance to them. Overall, for the vintage this has a fleshy, impressive quality. Good effort. From a tasting in Vienna. 16+/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: A dense color and dense fruit here, with a creamy vanilla nose. The palate is supple, with ripe and fairly dense tannins, and a good acid backbone. This wine has substance but also elegance and this makes an excellent combination in a wine. There is a little flashy side to it but overall I think you have to give it time in the glass to develop. From a tasting in Vienna.17+/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2005: A more reserved style, more dusty, but still ripe. Very pure, polished fruit. Elegant, raspberries and other red fruits. Rich though, a touch smoky too. Very full substance on entry, but pure and polished, very linear. Finely rounded and harmonious, with really fine-grained tannins and lovely, intense central fruit. Very complete. Impressive wine. From a tasting in Vienna. 17.5-18+/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2004: Reveals an interesting and more complex nose. It has some warm and spicy fruit, with nuances of menthol and liquorice, and there is a trace of greenness to the fruit too. The same character can be found on the palate, which has a gentle light-cream texture with soft fruits and a little hint of celeriac. Very restrained in terms of substance, good grip, and a nice peppery length, but slight sherry tones indicate that its time is soon over. From a tasting in Vienna. 16/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 2000: Very ruby red, this wine has good regulated concentration and unfolds itself in a bouquet of cotton sugar, blackberry , red berries and grilled slice of bread. The palate shows a strong backbone, but its tannin structure is now soft, relaxed and cottony. Sweetness like cotton sugar is repeated. A bit weak in the finish though. Well made, but another millennium hyped wine, too. From a tasting in Vienna. 17+/20 (November 2010)

White


Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2007: This has an elegant nose with plenty of fine aromatics and bright fruit, but there is a suggestion of depth also. A good substance and a nice grip on the finish, with rather gentle acidity. Nice minerality. This is attractive but at this stage it is not a patch on the supremely elegant 2006. From a tasting in Vienna. 15.5-16.5+/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2006: A nose of vibrant white cream here, herby and aromatic, but it seems also very vinous, elegant, stylish, with a stony-mineral element. It is wonderfully expressive. The palate is rich and it has a charming presence in the mouth, with a clean and deep character, supported by good grip. It also has some good length. Truly excellent wine. From a tasting in Vienna. 18.5+/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: A rich golden hue in the glass. Initially served at about 8°C (better too cool than too warm). The nose is reserved and linear, not tight but certainly tightly framed, with nuances of pear and lime fruit intermingled with polished acacia wood. And a strong "rancio" (sherry tone), that might annoy some people. The palate is substantial, vigorous, well defined as the nose suggested, broadening out a little in the midpalate to reveal a richer character, warm and yet firmly composed. The finish is delightful, with a little grip here, but also evolved, slightly honeyed lime and wood. It is also very long. Delicious, and ready now; almost over. Drink up. From a tasting in Vienna. 17.5+/20 (March 2010)

Surprise, surprise; a Bordeaux winery, whose white wines are very much better than their reds too me. And mineral! Truely stunning whites. Wonder how many people get fooled by this white wines in a blind tasting and confuse them with Loire whites. I could have!


Tenuta di Biserno

Red

Il Pino di Biserno (Maremma) 2006: This wine has a ruby red color. The nose is all about ripe fruits in black and red, dark chocolate and strong spicy oak. Palate is in very good balance, fine almost ripe tannins, fine but broad sweet fruit, with a mid palate in harmony and a long elegant finish. Still too oaky though and not on its peak. From a tasting in Vienna. 16.5+/20 (November 2010)

Il Pino di Biserno (Maremma) 2007: Bright, deep ruby red color. Nose shows cherries, blackberries, milk-chocolate and spicy oak. Also a off-flavor, reminding me a little bit of "bret". But this is a result of the hot year (2007 was really hot in Maremma) when the grapes shut down. (Explaint to me by Southafrican winemaker Craig Hawkins, who was with me in the tasting. THX for that Craig!) The palate is the famous mothful of fruits and spice with silky tannins. Strong oak, concentrated flavours, medium finish. Still too young. From a tasting in Vienna. 16/20 (November 2010)

Il Pino di Biserno (Maremma) 2008 (barrel tasting): I don´t want to waste much words on the flavor or the specific taste. In my opinion it´s needless to do, cause the wine will undergo a change anyway. The style is not strongly different then those above anyway.. Still it seems to shift in a more elegant and less broad way. Best il Pino so far. From a tasting in Vienna. 17/20 (November 2010)

Biserno (Maremma) 2007: Deep inkish ruby color, ripe prunes and dark berries. Dark chocolate, spicy oak. Fullbodied backbone, finetuned tannins, all concentrated flavours, tight but elegant. Long finish. Too young. From a tasting in Vienna. 17.5-18+/20 (November 2010)

Biserno (Maremma) 2008 (barrel tasting): Again, no need to waste words on details. Change is gonna happen. In the wine and in the style. Elegance is forced here, compared to 2007. Promising! From a tasting in Vienna. 18+/20 (November 2010)

Overall these wines are not my cup of tea. Many people will like this, i´m sure. The style of Tenuta di Biserno is very appealing to a wide audience. I´m just not fond of the exchangeability of this very international style. Not enough terroir going on in these wines, to be really interesting to my taste. These wines could´ve been made in a lot of different places in the world.
But they´re going in the right direction. The barrel tastings revealed, that the "rollandish" style is more and more reduced. (Yes, Michel Rolland is the consultant winemaker. Come on, are you really surprised? Thought so.). This is a promising development since Helena Lindberg, the winemaker of Tenuta di Biserno is truly gifted.



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